RED CEDARS MAKE GREAT FLORIDA GROWN CHRISTMAS TREES.
Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica), Sand Pine (Pinus clausa), Leyland Cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii), Virginia Pine (Pinus virginiana) and Red Cedar (Juniperus silicicola or Juniperus virginiana) — for example!
I was talking to my buddy J.W. and asked him about Florida Christmas trees. J.W. was born and raised in Florida and is a veteran of more than a couple seasons working the Christmas tree lots, so I thought he might know a little about them.
J.W. cocked-up his left eyebrow, gave me a quizzical look, and confidently announced, “They don’t grow Christmas trees in Florida”!
His quick and sure answer came as no surprise to me. Growing up in South Florida during the 1970’s, it was kind of expensive to buy a real tree (since they had to be trucked in from “up north”). The money saved on a real tree went towards having a wonderful Christmas Eve dinner with family and friends. For many years we dragged the tree-box down from the attic and put together our plastic, wood and steel-wire tree. It was not until the late 1980’s that we had a real Christmas tree fresh cut from a tree farm. At that time my family and I were living in Volusia County and I discovered a little tree farm outside of Deltona where we chose and cut our own trees. Our favorite was the Sand Pine because they tended to be big, bushy “bear trees” which smelled of tangerines and pine.
Many Florida natives and transplants alike do not know that Florida has about 17 small “choose ‘n cut” Christmas tree farms that are members of the Florida Christmas Tree Association.
The number of Christmas tree growers in Florida has declined over the years as older farmers retire and their children lose interest in the farms. Increasing taxes and land values have taken their toll as has the fact that tree farming is hard work that returns little profit. It takes at least three to six years for a tree started from seed to grow into a six-foot-tall Christmas tree. During that time the trees must be watered, fertilized, sprayed with fungicides and insecticides, trimmed into the pyramidal Christmas tree shape and the plots around each tree kept clear of weeds, brush and vines that might hinder their growth.
RED CEDAR FOLIAGE.
Conifers most popular for growing on Florida Christmas tree farms are the Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica), Sand Pine (Pinus clausa), Leyland Cypress (Cupressocyparis leylandii), Virginia Pine (Pinus virginiana) and Red Cedar (Juniperus silicicola or Juniperus virginiana). Of these trees the Red Cedar has been used for hundreds of year by Florida pioneers as their Christmas tree of choice. Reasons being that the Red Cedar grew in forests throughout Florida and grows naturally into a Christmas tree shape.
Unfortunately, times have changed. More development means fewer forests and less places for Red Cedar to grow naturally. It has also become difficult to buy potted Red Cedar from nurseries throughout the state because demand has grown for them in the last few years since landscaping with native Florida plants has come into vogue.
But, if you desire a live Christmas tree which you would like to later plant on your estate, Red Cedar is the tree to choose. Red Cedar:
Grows in Zones 8-10
Is a native
Attracts birds
Has high salt tolerance
Grows in most soils (except those that are very wet)
Is drought tolerant once established
Grows in partial shade to full sun
Is fairly resistant to pests.
This fragrant tree is a favorite for windbreaks, screens, and wildlife-cover for large-scale landscapes. Mature height is to 45 feet with a spread to 30 feet.
OLD FASHIONED RED POINSETTIA STILL THE MOST POPULAR COLOR.
Sure, Poinsettias are still available in the familiar red and green color, but new varieties make your Grandma’s poinsettias seem “Old Fashioned”.
Each year more than 100 million Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) in every size, shape, and color are sold in more than 40 countries around the world. The plant, a member of the Euphorbiaceae family, is a native of Central America and Mexico.
Love them or hate them, the new colors and styles of the old stand by Christmas flower, the Poinsettia are a big hit with consumers.
The so called “novelty varieties” of Poinsettias have become very popular in the last few years. Unlike the dyed leaf, painted or glued and glittered Poinsettias these plants are really bred for the colors and leaf shapes you see. But, of course, the prices of these plants reflect that. You can expect to pay at least $20 or more depending on the size of the plant.
DO NOT BE FOOLED, BLUE OR PURPLE POINSETTIAS (SOMETIMES COVERED WITH GLITTER) ARE CREAM OR WHITE POINSETTIAS THAT HAVE BEEN TREATED WITH DYES.
SHIMMER PINK VARIETY POINSETTIA.
WHITE GLITTER VARIETY POINSETTIA.
STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM VARIETY POINSETTIA.
Are Poinsettias Poisonous?
The poinsettia plant is often considered deadly. That’s wrong. Turns out the poisonous myth is based on a child back in 1919 who was found dead next to wild poinsettia plants and doctors then claimed it due to “poinsettia poisoning”. Research has proven that to be false, but the sticky latex sap which resembles Elmer’s glue can be an irritant (it contains chemicals called diterpenoid euphorbol esters and soap-like saponins). Although the plant is not poisonous, it’s not tasty either, so children or pets would not likely eat very many leaves after a quick taste test.
Common signs of Poinsettia ingestion in pets:
Drooling
Licking lips
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Skin irritation (including redness, swelling, and itchiness)
Eye irritation
Plant Facts:
Common Name: Poinsettia
Botanical Name: Euphorbiapulcherrima
Family: Euphorbiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen shrub
Origin: Central America and Mexico
Zones: 9 – 11
Height: 12′
Rate of Growth: Fast
Salt Tolerance: None
Soil Requirements: Most any well drained soil
Water Requirements: Moderately drought tolerant, but look better and hold leaves longer with an adequate supply of water
Leaves: Simple, alternate, ovate to fiddle-shaped, 7″ long, entire or lobed, prominent veins, milky sap.
Flowers: Inconspicuous yellow and green flowers known as cyathia surrounded by colored bracts — colors run from bright to blood red, white, vermillion, apricot, salmon, lemon-yellow, pink, pink and white, marbled, spotted, and variegated.
Fruits: 3-celled capsule
Pests or diseases: Mites, scale, thrips, caterpillars, root rot
Uses: Specimen plant
Bad Habits: Must have a period of dark rest before leaves will change in winter. Despite the common belief to the contrary, Poinsettias are not poisonous.
AGALYCHNIS CALLIDRYAS OR BETTER KNOWN AS THE RED-EYED TREE FROG AT REST (EL CASTILLO BUTTERFLY CONSERVATORY, EL CASTILLO-ARENAL, COSTA RICA)
The difference between a Toad and a Frog; and Why Frogs Pee on You.
You can recognize Bufos because they are sort of stout, very warty and have moist skin. They also have a large poison gland behind their ear membrane and above their shoulders — right where a potential predator would bite them. Bufo’s also have a lumbering hop and don’t go very far when they jump.
BUFO TOAD
CUBAN TREE FROG.
The second slide is a picture of a Cuban Tree Frog. They are slightly warty, have moist clammy skin, suckers on their toes and can leap well. Cuban tree Frogs also have a habit of climbing the walls outside the house at night and in the morning and jumping on unsuspecting people.
This is a classic FloridaGardener.com podcast from July of 2008.
Welcome to the second floridagardener.com Podcast. In this edition I am going to tell you about Frogs and Toads…
IN MEMORY OF LUDWIG VAN SCHNITZEL, THE PUP WE WERE AFRAID WOULD GET AHOLD OF A BUFO TOAD
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This is a classic FloridaGardener.com podcast. The original patchperfect.com went dark in 2013. Now a cache of the website can be seen on the WAYBACKMACHINE.
The Southern Leopard Frog is generally green or light brown in color with dark brown or black blotches that give this mostly aquatic frog its common name. The Southern Leopard Frog grows to 2-1/2 to 3-1/2″ in length, has a distinct light spot in the center of its eardrum, a long-pointed head and snout, and a white line running along its upper jaw.
Habitat
The Southern Leopard Frog inhabits freshwater ditches, canals, ponds, lakes, marshes, mixed hardwood swamps, and cypress swamps throughout Florida. During the summer it prefers weedy areas away from the water where it can hide and hunt for insects in moist vegetation. This little guy was found at night several yards from a fresh-water canal hunting for dinner in a driveway in front of a garage door.
Food Habits
Southern Leopard Frogs are mostly nocturnal and carnivorous, eating almost any kind of insect they can catch and fit in their mouth, including earthworms, spiders and centipedes.
THE SOUTHERN LEOPARD FROG GROWS TO ABOUT 3-1/2″ LONG. NOTICE THERE ARE NO SUCKERS ON ITS TOES (NOT A TREE CLIMBER), BUT ITS BACK FEET ARE SLIGHTLY WEBBED, SIGNS THIS FROG SPENDS ITS TIME ON LAND AND IN THE WATER.
Reproduction
Southern Leopard Frogs breed year round in the southern part of Florida and from March to June in the cooler northern areas of the state. They lay eggs in a clutch of several hundred in shallow water. Tadpoles hatch and remain in the fully aquatic form for approximately 90 days while feeding on algae and rotting plant matter.
Predators
Raccoons, bass and other fish, snakes, otters and water-birds find this frog to be a delicacy. When these frogs are near water, they escape predators on land by diving into the water, making a sharp turn while still submerged, and surface amid vegetation at the water’s edge while the predator continues searching for the frog where it originally dove into the water. This frog is hunted by humans for bass bait.
SOUTHERN LEOPARD FROGS MAKE GREAT BAIT FOR BASS FISHING.
Dodder is a parasitic vine with smooth, wiry, twining stems that attach to a host plant with tiny suckers (haustoria) which draw water, minerals and carbohydrates out of the host plant to feed itself. Large numbers of them twine over shrubbery to form blankets that look like masses of orange spaghetti (which gives it its common name, “vegetable spaghetti”). Dodder is a member of the Morning-Glory Family (Convolvulaceae) in older references, and a member of the Dodder Family (Cuscutaceae) in the more recent publications and lacks sufficient chlorophyll in its buds, fruits and stems to manufacture food for itself, thus its “sap-sucking” ways.
Only dodder seedlings have roots, its tangled stems are usually orange, but may be yellowish, whitish, or greenish or even tinged with red or purple. The plant’s tiny leaves are scale-like and almost invisible, whereas the numerous clusters of little waxy cream colored 5-petaled flowers and subsequent 1/8″ seedpods are more noticeable. There are 2 to 4 3-sided brownish seeds in each 2-celled capsule.
The USDA classifies dozens of dodder species as Noxious Weeds. American dodder (C. americana) and golden dodder (C. campestrisis) are particularly damaging agricultural weeds. Dodder is a major problem for such crops as alfalfa, clover, and flax. Other plants commonly parasitized by dodder include many daisy relatives (especially chrysanthemums), Virginia creepers, trumpetvines, English ivies, petunias, camellias, citrus, beets, redbuds, hollies, sumacs, buttonbushes, cucumbers, raspberries, potatoes, tomatoes, roses, coleus, impatiens, and various legumes. Dodder can also carry plant viruses, including Phytoplasma, which is responsible for many of the “yellows” diseases.
According to FDACS Noxious Weeds guide, “eight species of Dodder are native in Florida, and of these, Cuscuta pentagona is the most widely distributed, but at least one of these species is found in almost every county. Of the exotic species, only C. japonica has been collected in Florida and that only in Gadsden County. The native species include C. americana, C. compacta, C. exaltata, C. gronovii, C. indecora, C. obtusiflora, C. pentagona, and C. umbellata.”
Culture
Dodder is usually regarded as an annual, but tends to be a perennial in Florida. Some species are salt tolerant and/or herbicide resistant.
Light: Dodders grow most vigorously in full sun.
Moisture: Moisture requirements vary according to host plant. Some species grow in marshes, others in arid scrub-lands.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 4 – 11.
Propagation: Dodder reproduces readily from seed. A single plant may produce thousands of seeds, which can remain viable in the soil for many years.
Control
Since it will grow on so many different plants and its dormant seeds stay viable a long time dodder is hard to control and nearly impossible to eradicate. Dodder seed can be spread by irrigation water, in the manures of livestock that have eaten infested alfalfa, or along with the seed of crops that were infested with dodder. Pre-emergent herbicides such as DCPA (Dacthal), applied to the soil in the spring before seed germination will prevent this pest. Follow label directions!
Pulling and destroying dodder infected plants is recommended. Dodder must be destroyed before it produces seeds otherwise infestations will spread. Once established, dodder appears in patches in the field. Cutting infected host plants prior to the dodder producing seed helps to reduce the quantity of seed for the following year. Planting an infested field with an immune or resistant crop such as cereals, corn, soybeans, velvetbeans or cowpeas helps to control this weed.
The use of a 2,4-D type herbicide or contact herbicide sprayed on infected hosts and dodder plants will effectively kill established parasitic plants (and the host plant).
My wife Cathy and I spent our 25th wedding anniversary vacation in Costa Rica at Dreams Las Mareas, Playa el Jobo La Cruz de Guanacaste El Jobo. Northern Pacific Costa Rica across the Bahia Salinas from Playa Manzanillo, Nicaragua. The weather in the El Jobo area is hot and dry most of the year. This is considered a tropical dry forest area. The average day time temperatures are typically in the mid-80s to low 90s. Night time temps are usually in the low to mid-70s. While the rainy season is considered May through November, the area really only receives steady harder rains in September and October. Even during these months, rains usually last for an hour or two in the late afternoon. The Image below is of Playa Jobo on Bahia Jobo and the open Pacific Ocean in the background past Isla Chancleta. This area looks luxuriously green in mid-August, but the trees will go dormant and lose their leaves during the dry season. The hills will be brown and dry looking.
DRONE SHOT OF PLAYA JOBO AND BAHIA JOBO IN GUANACASTE COSTA RICA, AUGUST 18, 2022
Dreams Las Mareas is an all inclusive resort. But they do have an independently operated Britt Shop upstairs around the corner from the restaurants. This is where I spotted these little gems on the rack.
COLLECTION OF FOREST PRINCESS REAL ORCHID PLANTS FROM COSTA RICA
The orchids that I chose are:
Brassia arcuigera
Common name: Arching Spider Orchid, The Arching Brassia
Plant size: 12-20″ x 2-3″ (30-51 x 5-8 cm), excluding inflorescence
Pollination syndrome: Wasp (female Vespidae), attempts to sting lip of flower to lay eggs
Fragrance: Pleasant
Bloom characteristics: Arching to pendant inflorescence is up to 2 feet (60 cm) long with 6-15 pale green flowers with a few brown spots. Flowers are 9″ (23 cm) long.
Bloom Time (northern hemisphere): April to November
Description: The Arching Brassia has many, pleasantly scented flowers which can vary widely in color or pattern, even on the same plant.
Fragrance: Black pepper, musky (scent fades as flowers age)
Bloom characteristics: Inflorescence is 30″ long with 5- 15 green flowers. Flowers are 6″ across and last 3-8 weeks.
Bloom Time (northern hemisphere): April to September
Description: This is a large orchid which has pale green flowers with a lip covered in distinctive “warts” – small brown or green spots. In the wild, a type of white spider has been observed camouflaging itself among the orchid’s pale flowers to catch insects. This Brassia has some of the largest, most spider-like flowers of the genus.
Habitat: Epiphytic on trees or lithophyte on rocks in primary, broadleaf, evergreen lowland forests or primary montane forests at an altitude of 640 to 2300 meters above sea level
Life form: Epiphytic or lithophytic
Plant size: 3cm – 5cm (1.5″ to 2″) clustered pseudobulbs
Pollination syndrome:
Fragrance: Fragrant musk to yeasty scented
Bloom characteristics: Blooms in the fall arising on the newest mature pseudobulb with a terminal, slender, 4 to 5 cm long, erect, fractiflex rachis, 1 to 3 flowered, racemose inflorescence subtended with a narrow basal sheath and carrying 1 to 3, fragrant, long-lived flowers held just above the leaves
Bloom Time (northern hemisphere): August to November
Bloom Time (northern hemisphere): Year round; peaks from February to May
Bloom characteristics: Erect inflorescence is 10-38″ (25-50 cm) long with 5-10 red flowers with an orange center. Flowers are 1″ (2.5 cm) across and open successively over time.
Description: This large orchid has a reputation for being weedy, but flowers easily.
Bloom characteristics: 1-1/2` to 2` clumping bulbs topped with a pair of plicate 6 inch leaves, pendulous 8` spikes appear in flushes bearing many 1-1/4` intricate yellow finely spotted red flowers.
Pollination syndrome: Bee (Euglossa viridissima), attracted by food deception
Plant size: 15-26″ x 8-15″ (38-66 x 20-38 cm), excluding inflorescence
Bloom characteristics: Erect inflorescence is up to 5.5″ (14 cm) long and has 4-12 pink flowers which may not all open at the same time. Flowers are 3.5″ (9 cm) across.
Fragrance: Fragrant
Ethnobotanical uses: In Guatemala this flower goes by the name flor de San Sebastian and is used to decorate churches on the saint’s day. This orchid is also the national flower of Coasta Rica.
Bloom Time (northern hemisphere): October to June; peak in February to May
Description: Guarianthe skinneri is a medium sized orchid which is well-known in the US for blooming in the spring around Easter.
The sticker price for each was in US dollars $26.99.
The front of the card says “This product is approved for import into the USA” and contains a phytosanitary certificate for exportation. According to the back of the information card “Artificially propagated plants of CITES Appendices (species and hybrids) sealed and transported in sterile flasks are exempt from CITES importation restrictions. They do not require CITES documentation, (CITES, Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species, Art VII”.
REPUBLICA DE COSTA RICA MINISTERIO DE AGRICULTURA Y GANADERIA CERTIFICADO FITOSANITARIO (PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE) EXPORTACION NO. 2042434
REPUBLICA DE COSTA RICA MINISTERIO DE AGRICULTURA Y GANADERIA CERTIFICADO FITOSANITARIO (PHYTOSANITARY CERTIFICATE) EXPORTACION NO. 2042434
The orchids are made by the company Biotecnologia Verde de Costa Rica Ltda. The back of the card has a wealth of information regarding what is in the test tubes.
The in vitro orchids are plants that are artificially produced in a biotechnology laboratory under controlled conditions of humidity, temperature, light and nutrients. They are real plants with life, just like any other of their species. They are not miniature versions of bonsais.
The gel contained in the vial provides all the nutrients and substances needed for a proper development and growth of the orchid. That’s how they survive inside the vial. They do little photosynthesis.
The vial must be opened right before transplanting the orchid.
The plant is growing inside the vial and it an remain inside anywhere from 2 to 4 months.
Both the germinating seeds and the mother plants are not extracted from the forest, they come from the reproduction of the very best mother plants of Costa Rica.
Includes a “starter square” of White moss (sphagnum) that serves as substratum for transplanting the orchid. This way the orchid can continue growing outside the vial. With normal care of a plant, and depending on the variety, it will bloom in 3 or 4 years.
… Our mission is to preserve our beautiful Costa Rican orchids, as many of the varieties are endangered.
The plan for these baby orchids is that I have a nice large glass vase that I will make into a terrarium to transplant the baby orchids into when they get a little larger (then I will put them on moss slabs and hang on the oak tree in the backyard when they are large enough to grow outside (except for Epidendrum radicans which is a ground growing orchid)). The stones I bought on Amazon (Mix Horticultural Lava Rock Pebbles Pumice Potting Soil) for drainage and to hold moisture are a mix of Black lava, Red lava, Green stone (olivine, which is a magnesium iron silicate with the chemical formula (Mg²⁺, Fe²⁺)₂SiO₄.)) and Maifanitum (a natural silicate mineral (quartz-monzonite)).
INSTRUCTIONS FOR CARE OF YOUR FOREST PRINCESS ORCHID.
INCLUDES A “STARTER SQUARE” OF WHITE MOSS (SPHAGNUM) THAT SERVES AS SUBSTRATUM FOR TRANSPLANTING THE ORCHID.
I will follow up this article when I transplant the orchids into their terrarium. Meanwhile, why not follow the FloridaGardener on Instagram…
Approximately 323.2 to 298.9 million years ago years ago, the Earth was a much different place than it is today. The continents that we are familiar with now did not exist then. What we know today as the Anthracite Region of Pennsylvania was located on what was then known as Laurasia (Laurentia (the ancient geological core of North America), Baltica, and Siberia)) forming the northern part of the supercontinent Pangaea, parts of which (ancient Pennsylvania included) were located below the equator in the region of present day Brazil. Then, like today the temperatures of the area were consistently warm and humid, conducive for rampant plant growth.
US GEOLOGICAL SERVICE GENERALIZED GEOGRAPHIC MAP OF THE UNITED STATES IN MIDDLE PENNSYLVANIAN TIME.
Characteristic of the early part of the Carboniferous period (from about 360 million to 300 million years ago) were its dense and swampy forests of prehistoric vegetation, which contributed to large deposits of peat. Over millions of years the peat underwent transformation into thick coal seams in Western Europe and North America. The name “Carboniferous” refers to this coal. The Pennsylvanian period is named after the U.S. state of Pennsylvania, where thick widespread beds of coal formed during this time.1
How Coal Formed
Carboniferous coal was produced by prehistoric giant club moss or scale trees (Lepidodendron), seed ferns (Neuropteris), tree ferns (Pecopteris, andSphenopteris), giant horsetails (Calamites), and enormous trees with strap-shaped leaves (Sigillaria). Over millions of years, the organic deposits of these plant debris formed the world’s first extensive coal deposits. Source Essays on the Coal-Formation and Its Fossils by Leo Lesquereux
The growth of these forests removed huge amounts of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and stored it in the plants’ roots, branches, stems, bark, and leaves, leading to a surplus of oxygen in the atmosphere. Atmospheric oxygen levels peaked at around 35%, compared to 21% today.2
PENNSYLVANIAN COAL FOREST DIORAMA. THE LONE TREE WITH HORIZONTAL GROOVES IN THE RIGHT FOREGROUND IS A JOINTED SPHENOPSID (CALAMITES); THE LARGE TREES WITH SCAR PATTERNS ARE LYCOPSIDS. COURTESY OF THE DEPARTMENT LIBRARY SERVICES, AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, NEG. #333983
Through the ages the swamps and forests where these prehistoric plants grew were flooded, destroying the forests and covering the masses of plants with sand and fine sediment. Layers of tree stumps, spores, branches, and leaves were continuously slowly built up as the dead plants did not completely decay and were turned to peat in these swamp forests. Over time, heat and pressure converted these carbon rich peat layers into the coal beds of Pennsylvania.
The progression of living plants to coal is in four stages: peat, lignite, bituminous, and anthracite, the final product becoming dryer, less gaseous, harder and more dense as the stages progress. Heat is considered to be the primary influence changing peat to coal. “Heating causes hydrocarbon compounds (compounds composed of hydrogen, carbon, and oxygen) in the peat to break down and alter in a variety of ways, resulting in coal. In general, moisture and gases (for example, methane, carbon dioxide) are systematically expelled from the peat and resulting coal with increasing burial and heat.” Source Geological Survey, University of Kentucky
PEAT 1ST STAGE OF COMPRESSED PLANT MATERIAL. CARBON MATERIAL HIGH IN WATER AND CO2.
LIGNITE SOFT COAL. COMPRESSED, LOWER WATER CONTENT, BUT STILL SOFT ENOUGH TO MOLD.
LIGNITE MOLDED INTO BRIQUETTE.
BITUMINOUS COAL. HARDER THAN LIGNITE AND CONTAINING LESS GASES AND MOISTURE.
ANTHRACITE, HARD COAL. COLLECTED IN CENTRALIA, PA.
Centralia, Pennsylvania — world famous for being the town where in May 1962 the city council proposed cleaning up the local landfill by setting it on fire. Brilliant! Except that either they did not think it through or they forgot that the city dump was nestled in an abandoned coal pit with seams of coal radiating out from it in all directions including under the Town of Centralia. When the manager of the dump set the garbage on fire the burning trash set the exposed coal seams on fire. The dump fire followed the coal seams and eventually met up with the coal deposits under the town which caught fire and collapsed causing the earth above it to subside and carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide and other foul fumes to leak upward into basements and living spaces of homes and businesses in the town. However, it was not until 1992 that Pennsylvania took action to finally condemn all of Centralia’s buildings, evict the last citizens living there and eliminate the town’s ZIP code.3
CENTRALIA COAL FIRE EXHAUST PIPE. BE AWARE THAT NOXIOUS FUMES ARE STILL COMING OUT OF THESE PIPES, DO NOT LINGER AROUND THEM.
Different nearshore conditions led to different types of sedimentary rocks being formed which is evidenced by the numerous types of fossil rocks found in the abandoned mining areas near Centralia. “Multiple transgressions and regressions of the Pennsylvanian seas across the continent can be seen in the rocks, and even counted, because they leave a telltale sequence of layers. As sea levels rise, the layers may go from sandstone (beach), to silty shale or siltstone (tidal), to freshwater limestone (lagoon), to underclay (terrestrial), to coal (terrestrial swampy forest). Then as sea levels fall, one may see a shale (nearshore tidal) grade to limestone (shallow marine) and finally to black shale (deep marine).” 4
SANDSTONE GULLEY WHERE THE FOSSIL CALAMITE STEMS CAST WAS FOUND.
GRAY SHALE FOSSIL LEAF HASH.
BLACK SHALE HILL ON NORTH SIDE OF A FORMER COAL MINE IN CENTRALIA, PA.
Plant fossils can be found just east of Centralia along the northern flank of a former strip mine with a very broad exposure of dark-gray shale of the Pennsylvanian Llewellyn Formation. In this area the Llewellyn has many fossils of the stems and branches of plants, and occasionally fossil leaves can be found. The rocks are relatively easy to break apart with a hammer, and a screwdriver can then be used as a wedge to break open the shale. You have to be careful with the screwdriver to avoid scratching the fossils. The exposure of the shale also faces south, which means that you will get plenty of sun and lots of good light for finding and photographing fossils.
GPS PARKING NEAR ODD FELLOWS CEMETERY: N40° 48′ 03″ / W76° 20′ 13″ GPS MAIN OUTCROP: N40° 48′ 02″ / W76° 20′ 04″ LOWER RIGHT HAND CORNER. IMAGE: GOOGLE MAPS
If you go to hunt for leaf fossils here, bring plenty of water to stay hydrated. I went during the summer and the black shale absorbs heat and radiates it back — it tends to be hot on the hill, Be sure to wear work boots that you are not afraid to get dirty. The slopes of the shale outcropping are slick and you will sink down into to some areas of it which could result in shale dust and pieces going into your shoes if you are not wearing boots. Bring a 5 gallon bucket so you can carry fossil rock pieces back to your car in it. I brought a tool bag that I was able to sling over my shoulder to carry my tools in. Be aware that when you walk back to the shale outcropping from the Odd Fellows Cemetery parking area you will be going up and down some steep and rocky hills. Take your time and be careful.
That is a nice piece of fern fossil above. I bought this from the gift shop of the Lackawanna Coal Mine Tour, it only cost $7.95. You are probably not going to find a fossil this nice at the Centralia site. I do not know for sure, my wife only allowed me two hours to hunt for fossils (we were on vacation from Florida, after all and had other things to do). Maybe if I had more time, I could have found some fancier pieces, I don’t know. Depending on where you park, it will take about 10 to 15 minutes to walk back to the shale outcropping so watch your time and pace yourself.
Dark shale is a black, thinly laminated carbonaceous shale, exceptionally rich in organic matter (5% or more carbon content) and sulfide (especially iron sulfide, usually pyrite), and often containing unusual concentrations of certain trace elements (U (uranium), V (vanadium), Cu (copper), Ni (nickel)). It is formed by partial anaerobic decay of buried organic matter in a quiet-water, reducing environment (such as in a stagnant marine basin) characterized by restricted circulation and very slow deposition of clastic material. Fossil organisms are preserved as a graphitic or carbonaceous film or as pyrite replacements.5
I have always wanted to be a bee keeper and one weekend in October I discovered that I had a colony of bees living in my overturned Terra Cotta Kokopelli flower pot out behind the oak tree. I approached the bee colony a number of times to see how aggressive they were and lucky for me they did not take much notice of my presence.
I wished to keep the bees, but first I asked my wife if she would be alright with it. She expressed a bit of skepticism, “By the pool?”, she questioned. I assured her that it would be fine, the bees would mind their own business and not bother us when we were enjoying the pool since their hive would be in the far corner of the yard under the oak tree. She also asked if it is allowed in Royal Palm Beach, since they are tough with the codes here.
BEE COLONY IN OVERTURNED TERRA COTA FLOWER POT.
Legally Keeping European Honey Bees (Apis mellifera) in Your Florida Yard
According to Florida’s Honey bee law (Florida Statute Chapter 586; 5B-54.0105 Location of Managed Honey Bee Colonies) the Florida Department of Agriculture (FDACS) has the authority to preempt any local ordinances that prohibit beekeeping except for those adopted by homeowners’ associations (HOA) or deed-restricted communities. You are legally permitted to keep up to 3 honey bee colonies on your one quarter acre or less size property if you follow a couple of important rules. First, any honey bee colonies kept on non-agricultural properties must follow the Best Management Requirements (BMR) for Maintaining European Honey Bee Colonies to be in compliance with the Florida Beekeeper Compliance Agreement (FDACS-08492). The law requires Florida beekeepers to register their colonies with FDACS and requires yearly colony inspection by an FDACS apiary inspector. When a bee colony is situated within 15 feet of a property line, the beekeeper must establish and maintain a flyway barrier at least 6 feet in height consisting of a solid wall, fence, dense vegetation or combination that is parallel to the property line and extends beyond the bee colony in each direction. Additionally the honey bee colonies must be on fenced property to keep the hives from being disturbed by trespassers,
Other common sense best practices when keeping bees on your property are to not place apiaries within 150 feet of tethered or confined animals or public places where people gather such as parks, parking lots, etc. And do not place colonies in an area that will block entry or exit of emergency services to entrances of properties and buildings.
It is important to note that a yearly colony inspection is required so the Department of Agriculture inspector can verify that you are not inadvertently keeping Africanized Honey Bees (AHB) the so called “killer bees” of bad horror movies — Apis mellifera scutellata Lepeletier. Also important and required by the law is that there must be a source of water available to the bees on the property so they do not congregate in someone else’s yard to find water; That you inspect your honey bee colony monthly to insure that they have adequate food, a strong colony and that they have not become overly aggressive (in which case, if they have the local bee inspector should be called to determine if AHB’s have taken over the colony).
As a bee keeper you are responsible to practice reasonable swarm prevention techniques as referenced in University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences extension document “Swarm Control for Managed Beehives”.
Windows in the Summerhawk Ranch bee hive allow you to check on your colony without having to take the hive apart.
Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Bee Hive mason jar super without jars in place.
Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Bee Hive brood super and queen excluder.
Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Bee Hive bottom screen for ventilation.
Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Bee Hive super with screen spacer on top.
The Bee Hive I Purchased
Now that we have the legal stuff out of the way I needed to purchase some bee keeping supplies. The first thing I needed was a place to keep the bees. I looked at a few different bee hives and decided on the Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Beehive mostly because it looked fun and easy for a beginner. It arrived in one large box and was fairly easy to put together. Although a couple of the mason jars arrived cracked and broken. I understand that this is typical of this bee hive in shipping. They do not pack the glass jars very well.
The main advantage of a mason jar bee hive is, in addition to the design and simplicity of use, the bees themselves pack honey in the glass jars. The Summerhawk Ranch hive took the standard brood super and added a window that allows the beekeeper to see the activity of the hive from the outside. It is called “quick check super” which allows you to check the condition of the hive without stressing out the bees by opening the hive. Summerhawk Ranch designers also took the standard frame and scalloped the edges to make it easier to see between the frames when looking through the quick check window allowing quick visual checks on the health of the hive without having to fully dismantle it as often. The Summerhawk Ranch hive also comes with all of the frames preassembled and pre-waxed which allows setting up the hive faster.
Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Beehive Kit
Parts included:
Deep jar super x1
1-pint (0.45l) mason jars with lids x6
1-quart (0.90l) mason jars with lids x6
Quick-check super x1
Frames with pre-waxed plastic foundation x8
Stainless steel queen excluder x1
Ventilated inner-cover x1
Ventilated jar screens x2
Accessories included:
Bee veil with the hat
Bee gloves
Liquid smoke – you can put it on your hands and arms to prevent bee stings during inspecting the hive if you don’t wear protective gear
Frame tool
Honeycomb uncapping fork (scratcher)
Bee keeping tools include a spray bottle with sugar water in it, a bee smoker with included smoker pellets, liquid smoke, bee suit and jacket, bee gloves, wax frame tools and a bucket to carry the tools in.
Some of the tools came with the Summerhawk Ranch hive, but I bought a few more things that were not included such as:
Suiting Up and Dumping theBees Into Their New Hive
Being new to bee keeping I suited-up with a bee jacket and bee bonnet. Started a fire in my smoker and had my spray bottle of sugar water. I opened the Summerhawk Ranch hive then spaced the frames apart. I then used my smoker to puff some smoke around the entrance of the Kokopelli flower pot. I lifted the pot up up and smoked underneath it. I then proceeded to pick the pot up and dump and shake the bees into the hive. There were a lot of disturbed bees flying around, but they were not at all aggressive.
QUEEN APPEARS MIDDLE RIGHT ON FRAME AT 11 SECONDS. SHE IS THE VERY LONG BEE
The honey comb that was in the pot I detached from the terra cotta and rubber banded into empty frames. These I put into the open spaces between the frames I spaced out earlier. To calm the ball of bees down a little, I sprayed them with sugar water. After an hour or so the bees calmed down and started walking between the honey comb frames. I was even able to see the queen in the side window after about 20 minutes.
HONEYCOMB THAT WILL BE RUBBER BANDED INTO EMPTY FRAMES
SUMMERHAWK RANCH MASON JAR BEEHIVE
SUMMERHAWK RANCH BEE HIVE AND BEE MADE HONEY COMB
I found it interesting to interact with the bees. After a few days I felt comfortable enough to approach the colony wearing just a pair of shorts and bee gloves. Then after a while I did not bother with the gloves. I would approach the colony and they would do what they do, coming and going, paying me no attention. I would use the quick check windows to peek in on the bees and be able to catch a glimpse of the queen bee every once in a while.
After a couple of weeks with my bees disaster suddenly, or maybe I should say, finally struck. Our back yard had been under construction for over a year to put in a pool. Work had stopped for several months because the pool company we contracted stole our money and fled to the Ukraine with it. We found another pool builder to complete the work. It seems my bees did not appreciate the sudden activity of construction in the yard and absconded. A handful of worker bees stayed behind to tend to the eggs in the cells. I chased the refuge bees out of the hive and blocked off the entrance until they left. Now my Summerhawk Ranch Mason Jar Beehive stands empty waiting for a new swarm to discover and inhabit it.
Hrudka pronounced (hur-UT-ka) is a simple custard cheese. The basic recipe is mixing eggs and milk, adding salt, and cooking it while continually stirring until the proteins separate into curds and the liquid separates into whey while not scorching the mixture.
The technique for making hrudka is similar to making farmers cheese. Hrudka can be made savory with salt and pepper or sweetened with sugar and honey.
The recipe below is on the sweeter side with honey, sugar and vanilla. Hrudka can be served cold at Easter Sunday breakfast or at the holiday dinner feast. It is also sliced to be put on a ham sandwich on paska bread with red horseradish.
I like to fry hrudka in butter to brown each side and eat it for breakfast with grape jelly and Carolina Reaper sauce on top.
Hrudka Recipe
A couple of items to have on hand before starting:
Healthy pinch of Saffron Threads (adds flavor and color)
Combine all ingredients in a enameled or stainless steel pot. Cook over medium to low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture curdles. Pour mixture into a colander that is lined with several thicknesses of cheesecloth. Once mixture is drained, pick it up –cheesecloth and all — and shape into a ball by twisting the top part of the cheesecloth. Tightly tie open end with string, placing string very close to the top of the ball. Twist ball of curds to drain liquid out. Caution: The ball of curds will be hot. Hang over sink until cool. Remove cheesecloth when cool; cut the top off the cheese to give it a flat bottom (use the piece you cut off to taste test the hrudka with a loved one) wrap and refrigerate. (The whey from the hrudka can be saved and used when making kulich. To conserve the whey, place the colander over a large pot before pouring mixture into cheesecloth).
This cheese is very perishable and should be consumed within a day or two. Store tightly covered in the refrigerator. I wrap my hrudka first in plastic food wrap then in aluminum foil for storage in the refrigerator. Stored uncovered the cheese will quickly dry out.
Starting a garden is an excellent way to enjoy beautiful plants and delicious fruits, herbs, and vegetables right in your backyard. As a new gardener, it’s vital to be sure you’re choosing plants that will thrive in your climate. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map helps you determine which plants will grow best in your part of the country. Knowing what to plant in your garden means a successful yield, year after year. Read on for some helpful gardening tips that will ensure your fruit, herbs, plants, and flowers live long and prosper.
What are the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones?
The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) designed a map of the United States that separates different country regions into 11 numbered zones. Each zone is approximately 10 degrees Fahrenheit warmer or colder in an average winter than the zone directly adjacent to it. Most plants you purchase from your local nursery or home improvement store will list their hardiness zones on the packaging to help make your selection easier. These zones are crucial to determine which types of plants will survive the winter in various regions of the country. If temperatures get too cold, certain species will perish, while others may thrive, depending on their hardiness zone.
These plant hardiness zones are established to help make gardening and growing plants more manageable. They’re also vital for farmers or anyone who needs to plant fruits and vegetables for survival. Hardiness zones are most important when planting perennial plants since they typically live past a single growing season. If you’re planting perennials in your garden, you’ll need to know which ones will survive the winter based on their zone.
Any plant in your garden that’s outside of its hardiness zone will likely wilt, have stunted growth, or die completely. That’s why it’s essential to grow plants that are suitable for your specific region and climate. Understanding how plants and climate are related will make it much easier for you to plant and enjoy a successful garden for the long-term.
How to use your planting zone
Before you begin planting your garden, determine your hardiness zone. You can find this by visiting the USDA website and entering your zip code, or by viewing the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map and finding your location. Once you know your zone, look for plants that have it listed on the tag. Most nurseries will also include the range of temperatures at which different plants are “hardy,” or able to survive.
It’s important to note that climate isn’t the only factor that affects the hardiness of plants. The amount of sunlight, water, and the nutrients in the soil also play a vital role in their survival. While you should always select plants that are within your zone only, they should also be planted in the right areas of your yard to ensure they get the amount of sunlight they need.
GARDENING WITH CHILDREN PROVIDES THEM WITH SKILLS TO HELP YOUR CHILD’S DEVELOPMENT.
Planting vegetables, flowers, herbs, and fruit
Once you have a vision for your garden, it’s a good idea to establish a planting calendar. This calendar can help you plant a variety of different items at specific times of the year to ensure good growth. Knowing when to plant veggies, flowers, herbs, and fruit is a wise way to keep your garden happy, healthy, and beautiful.
What is a planting calendar?
A planting calendar helps you to calculate the best time of year to start seeds and plant your garden. This calendar times your planting based on the first and last frost dates in your region. Frost dates are the first and last average day (or range of days) when frost is common in a specific zone. Since many plants cannot handle the extreme cold temperatures of frost, make a note of your frost date so that your plants are protected.
How to calculate plant dates?
To help you calculate your plant dates, use the first or last frost dates for your zone or zip code as a guide. Ideally, you should plant items in the spring after your last expected frost date, and items in the fall before your first expected frost date. If you plant something too early in the spring, nighttime temperatures may dip too low for it to survive. Items planted too late in the fall may be vulnerable to the frost of winter before they’re fully established.
When to plant vegetables?
It’s best to plant your vegetables when there is no longer a risk of frost. This is particularly important when plants are new and quite vulnerable to the dangers of frost and extreme cold. Certain types of vegetables do well in the warmer summer months, such as corn or tomatoes. Others can survive just fine when planted in early spring, like kale or broccoli. In general, plant your vegetables when the danger of frost is completely gone to ensure success.
IMAGINE — FRESH CHERRY TOMATOES FROM YOUR GARDEN.
When to plant flowers?
Use your first and last frost dates as a guide when planting flowers. Check the type of flower carefully to determine if it’s able to remain hardy in your planting zone. Some species of flowers can survive a light frost, while others require the soil to remain at consistently warm temperatures to thrive. Take the type of flower and your frost dates into account before you begin to plant flowers to ensure colorful, bountiful blooms.
When to plant herbs?
You can start most types of herbs from seed and keep them indoors or outside in a protected area. Most young starter herbs (small, young plants) can be put directly in the ground, but new seeds should be germinated indoors. Check the specific planting instructions for each herb to determine which ones can be started outside. All herbs should be planted at least several weeks before the last frost for best results.
When to plant fruit?
Fruit trees should be planted in the early spring or late winter if you’re planting them in the ground. However, if you plan to grow fruit trees in containers, they tend to do best between September and May. Avoid planting fruit trees in the peak of winter, since frost is almost always guaranteed to damage or kill most plants that bear fruit. Certain fruits that go in the ground, like strawberries, should be planted approximately six weeks before the last frost date in your zone.
Indoor and outdoor seeds
If you’re planning to start your garden from seeds, certain plants do best when germinated indoors, while others may thrive outside. Growing seeds indoors protect the new plants from the dangers of pests, inclement weather, and hungry wildlife. However, many plants prefer to begin their lives with the seeds placed directly in the soil. If you’re starting your garden with seeds rather than starter plants, check the packaging carefully for growing instructions. Most will show you whether the plant should be germinated inside first, or if it will do better by being sown outdoors.
Rooted vegetables like carrots and radishes prefer to grow from seed directly planted in the ground.
Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant yield much better crops when started indoors, then transplanted outside once they’re established.
Vegetables that enjoy heat like cucumbers, melons, and beans do best when sown in the ground after the risk of frost has passed.
Many annual flowers like petunia or amaranth prefer to be started indoors. Others like cosmos, zinnia, and marigold prefer to be planted from direct-sown seed.
Flowers like morning glory and poppies do best in cool soil and prefer to be planted directly into the ground early in the season.
Gardening Tips
Now that you know more about plant hardiness zones, it’s time to get your garden started. Here are some helpful gardening tips that will make the process easier.
Pick a spot. Choose an area of your backyard where your garden will get the best sunlight, and that’s easiest for you to access. Most plants require 6-8 hours of sunlight each day to thrive.
Clear the ground. Remove grass, weeds, and rocks from the area, and clear a space where your garden can grow. Add a layer of compost in winter so that it’s ready for planting by spring.
Improve the soil. Fertilize your soil using organic matter, such as decaying leaves, grass clippings, or compost to give it a boost of nutrients.
Work the soil. You’ll need to till the soil to create a healthy environment for roots. Use a rototiller to gently till the soil without overworking it so that it doesn’t disturb microorganisms that may live there.
Pick your plants. Choose your new plants for the garden based on their hardiness zone and your planting calendar. Look for healthy starter plants at your local nursery or shop online. You can start slowly with a few easy plants before moving on to more.
Plant. Dig holes in your garden area, and place your plants in a row, making sure that you space them apart according to the planting instructions. Gently loosen the roots before placing them into the ground, then cover each plant with a layer of soil and water them.
Water. Water your seedlings daily, and water your transplants every other day or so. Once the plants in your garden are established, you can water them based on your climate, soil moisture levels, and how much water each type of plant requires for maintenance. Water your garden as early as possible each day to minimize evaporation.
Maintain your garden. Keep your garden healthy by pruning off dead leaves and branches. Remove weeds as needed, and look for signs of pests so you can keep them under control. Cover your soil with approximately two inches of mulch to keep moisture in and weeds out.
START SEEDS INDOORS PLANT OUTDOORS WHEN LARGER.
Climate types and plant hardiness examples
The type of climate you live in can play an important role in how well your garden thrives. Here are a few examples of various climates in the United States and their coordinating plant hardiness.
Arizona. Known for its hot, dry climate, Arizona is located in zones 9-10 in the southern half of the state, and zones 6-7 in the northern half.
Florida. Florida experiences a warm, humid climate almost year-round. This state is located in zone 8 at the top half of the state and ranges closer to zones 9-11 as you approach the Florida Keys.
North Dakota. Temperatures in North Dakota can easily dip into the negatives for much of the winter, putting this state in zones 3-4.
Louisiana. With its mild climate and plenty of moisture, Louisiana is located in USDA hardiness zones 8-10.
Washington. Plenty of rain and a long coastline gives Washington a wide range of hardiness zones. On the west coast of Washington, the zone is between 8-9 while closer to the eastern part of the state has a hardiness zone of 6-7. Portions of the north feature lower zones between 4-5.
With the right plants for your climate and hardiness zone, you can enjoy a successful, beautiful garden that will last for years to come. Start by learning about your specific climate, and only choose plants that you know will thrive. Use a planting calendar to help you determine the times of the year when frost is present. With some practice, time, and patience, you can enjoy a fruitful garden that thrives.
When selecting your Christmas tree, remember these tips:
Select a tree that is at least one foot shorter than the height of the ceiling in the room where you are going to display the tree.
Check the freshness of the tree by running your fingers over the branch along the needles. Make sure the needles on the tree you select are pliable and adhere to the branches. They should bend, but not break or fall off.
Try shaking the tree to see if the needles are firmly attached. While you can expect some loss of brown needles, don’t accept the tree if you notice an excessive loss of green needles.
Avoid trees that have a wilted look. Make sure the trunk of the tree is straight. The stump should extend six to eight inches below the longest branches to allow placement in the tree stand.
Always check for insects and dead needles inside the tree crown. Have dead needles and insects shaken or blown out of the tree before you take it home. If insects are found, spray the tree with an indoor-outdoor aerosol insecticide containing pyrethrins before bringing the tree inside.
Once you get your Christmas tree home, follow these tips to keep the needles on and the tree fragrant:
Do a freshness test. Gently grasp a branch between your thumb and forefinger and pull it toward you. Very few needles should come off in your hand if the tree is fresh. Shake or bounce the tree on its stump. You should not see an excessive amount of green needles fall to the ground. Some loss of interior brown needles is normal and will occur over the lifetime of the tree.
Once you’ve chosen your tree, keep it in a sheltered, unheated area such as a porch or garage to protect it from the wind and sun until you are ready to decorate it.
Before you set up your tree, make a fresh, straight cut across the base of the trunk (about a quarter inch up from the original cut) and place the tree in a tree stand that holds a gallon of water or more.
Warning: Keep the tree stand filled with water. A seal of dried sap will form over the cut stump in four to six hours if the water drops below the base of the tree, preventing the tree from absorbing water later when the tree stand is refilled. If a seal does form, another fresh cut will need to be made.
A tree will absorb as much as a gallon of water or more in the first 24 hours and one or more quarts a day thereafter. Water is important because it prevents the needles from drying and dropping off and the boughs from drooping. Water also keeps the tree fragrant.
Skip the sugar, salt and other tree water additives, they do not do anything for the tree. There are not any substantial benefits of adding anything to the water. It is far more important to make sure that the tree always has enough water.
In addition, keep your tree away from heat and draft sources like fireplaces, radiators and television sets. Test your light cords and connections before hanging them on the tree to make sure they’re in good working order. You don’t want to use cords with cracked insulation or broken or empty sockets. Also be sure to unplug the lights before you go to bed or leave the house. Never overload electrical circuits.
Do Not Smoke or Place Candles Near The Tree!
Sensible precautions such as these will help preserve the unique beauty and tradition that only a real Christmas tree can provide.
